Hiking and hiking and hiking away!

Hellooooo! So clearly I've been ridiculously busy. It's been great, but so physically and mentally demanding that I completely burnt out the other day. EVERYthing was making me cry, haha, for no good reason other than my system couldn't handle any more input. There has been a rush to train all the new guides to lead hikes because 5 of the seasoned guides are leaving within the next week, wait, no, make that six. So, ALL of the seasoned guides except for the director and assistant director are leaving, and August is the very busiest month for us, so the busy-ness will continue until September, when it will quiet down quite a bit.

But on with the pictures!

Telica is a really, really cool hike, and I am so glad I am learning to lead it right away because I had such a horrible experience on the first hike that I practically never want to do it again. It would have been fine if it weren't for the insanely heavy pack I was carrying. I just didn't know my limit for such a demanding hike. Since then, my left big toe has been asleep and the surface of my upper left arm has been asleep as well, although I think it is slowly waking back up now that I have a few days without a pack on my back. Don't get me wrong - this is a wonderful place with people that really care about each other, so I am not being "treated poorly," I am simply learning my limits.

Okay, so, back to Telica. Here is a little tour of my first Telica hike. (I have done it again since then). Narration will follow the pictures this time.

This is how the trail looks for the first 3-4 hours of the hike. It is nice and shaded and really pretty. You hear birds and crickets and a few cicadas. And on the last trip I learned that the maidenhair firm makes excellent, baby-soft natural toilet paper. I might just make a plan to collect some on the way next time, haha.

Yet another view of the trail on the way up. It is very common to pass people on skinny horses, or a large cart full of wood, pulled by two bulls. Evidently it is more common to say "adios" in passing than it is to say "buenas," (hello). Farmlands line the road almost the entire trek up.

After lunch (sandwiches or veggie burritos), we start to ascend quite a bit, and soon get a beautiful view of the surrounding farmland and Volcan San Cristobal, as you can see in the distance above.

We then stop at a nice shady spot on the trail to rest and to collect firewood to use later at camp. Can you see all the sticks stuffed above peoples' packs?

And soon enough we reach the crater. Actually, we reach a saddle below the crater and drop our packs to enjoy a light 5 minute walk to the edge of the crater.

The drop-off is astonishing, and part of what makes this crater seem so monsterous.

It is hard to do it justice in a foggy picture, but this is my first view of lava ever. What makes it all the more exciting is the roaring sound coming from that little eye (which really isn't so little). The closest thing I can compare it to is a massive jet engine.

It somehow wasn't all that dizzying to look into the crater. Just plain fascinating.

Clients chilling out back at camp. The campsite is lush and green, and there are no mosquitos there, yay!!

The next morning we climbed up to a ridge to watch the sun rise, and this is a view of our camp from above.

A more distant shot of the crater of Telica at sunrise.

Seismic monitoring station, or something like that.

Giant scorpion on the seismic monitoring station. I'm not in Kansas anymore!! But I guess it's really the little ones that have the strongest, more poisonous bite.

A great view of San Cristobal, another volcano in the Maribios Range.

I'm tired and already shiny from the humidity, though it was still a little cool yet.

On the hike down the second day, we stop here to look at a termite's nest. I was impressed by how many clients ATE them, as encouraged by Rebecca, the lead guide. Not on this trip but on the next one I ate two, myself, and they taste exactly like carrots - really good! I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, and they are evidently a great source of protein. My nutrition studies continue!

The last good photo I took of the trip - walking through farmlands on our way to the small town of San Jacinto, where we chow down at a comedor, which indicates a restaurant or eatery where the food is pre-made and sitting in a case. It generally consists of rice, beans, and a choice of meat or stew, topped with a tortilla.

Since the hike where I took these pictures, I have gone again to the same volcano, but in between those hikes I was fortunate enough to have led a volcano boarding day with these lovely gentlemen:

Perhaps the full description of this hike would be better related by phone because it was SO fun and so interesting! I just ended up leading my very first hike all by myself (we lead the one-volcano boarding trips with only one guide most of the time) to a bunch of guys determined to board down the volcano ... NAKED. Hey, they fill out their medical forms and beyond that, we can advise against such things but in reality, there are no further rules! The funny thing was that all the other guides thought it was hilarious that I got this bunch because they had an impression of me as pretty sweet and innocent and assumed I would be bashful and shocked, but it was a RIOT! They were so much fun, and believe it or not, respectful and mature considering how much they were clearly partying-it-up during their travels. And I can't remember the last time I had an entire day of hearty laughter and playfulness. I am actually thankful to have been the guide assigned to lead that day - what girl wouldn't want to lead a bunch of good-looking wild young men on a volcano boarding adventure?? The first run down the volcano they wore their proper boarding suits to get a feel for it, but the second time down (it's a 45 minute hike up both times), they stripped down to all but their shoes, wore their t-shirts on the heads or something ridiculous like that, and gloves on their you-know-whats, and proceeded down the mountain. I was kind enough to park myself in a good spot for taking lots and lots of photos. I still laugh just thinking about it, let alone reviewing the photos ... Even if nothing else too eventful took place, the absurdity and humor of that day would make it worth coming here.

But now, I'm going to take care of lots of other computer and internet business while I have this computer. Natasha has lent it to me while she leads a hike today and tomorrow. I can even Skype!

Love you guys! Sorry for such a delayed update. I love being so busy, actually, as long as I can maintain a good balance, which I am learning in this environment. I am becoming very close with the other volunteers here and so I love to help out whenever I can, and for the most part, so does everyone else. In truth, I'd like to stay here much longer, so I am brainstorming ways to make money that won't take up too much of my time. Even if I worked 10 hours a week on a US wage, I could sustain myself here. Anybody need any cheap labor that can be done from abroad? Or know anybody that does? ;)

Perhaps I'll have time to blog some more later about my general experiences and impressions around town ... it just won't be as colorful without pictures.

Hope all is well in Northern California - I miss you guys!

First hike and other updates

Today I went on my first hike as a guide in training (along with two other new guides). It was to go "volcano boarding" on Cerro Negro, a cinder cone volcano 728 meters high. I have no idea how many feet that is - another thing I'll have to learn. The night before, the guide assigned to the hike, Thiago (from Brazil I believe) went shopping at the local open market for fresh fruits and veggies to prepare for the trip. Then we all sat around and chatted while chop-chop-chopping the veggies and storing them away for the next day. In the morning the clients/trekkers arrived at 7:45 and just after 8 we loaded into the back of Victor's covered truck. Victor is the official Quetzaltrekkers transport man.
The ride to Cerro Negro took about an hour, and most of it was on dirt road, which really isn't much dirt. Imagine black volcanic rock and dirt, aka gravel.
Even on these roads we passed a typical site: the man of the family maneuvering a bicycle while the woman sat across the top tube of the bicycle in front of him, and often a child sat on her lap as well. The road got worse and more narrow the closer we got to the volcano, and we began to pass cow-driven carts full of wood - trunks or small trees or medium-sized branches. In other carts sat a family, and we would all wave at each other. I noticed my initial thought not to wave, not to look like a silly tourist, but when the whole family grinned hugely and waved back with enthusiasm when one of our clients waved, I realized that sometimes being friendly is better than being cool, haha.

View of Cerro Negro as we get closer.

Eventually we arrived at the ranger station, used the restroom if needed, paid for our entrance to the park, and got back in the truck to head to the trailhead.

Pause - it's raining VERY hard right now - the hardest I've experienced since I've been here, and as I sit inside the Quetzaltrekkers house in the front entrance, rain drips on my head. There's a good drip going in the kitchen, too, I'm sure, where it was going the last time it rained.

Anyway - we all strapped on wooden boards and a small bag of necessary gear and trekked the 45-60 minutes to the top, where we could see into the various craters and had a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape.

Boards strapped on and ready to go.

Cerro Negro really is black, just a mound of black volcanic rock, and the contrast of its slopes against the vibrant green of the rest of the countryside was beautiful (see picture directly above). I DID take many pictures, but with someone else's camera and I do not have the necessary equipment to acquire them (now I do!).

A hiker posing for her dad who is taking a picture from further down the slope ...

The most recent crater formed, in 1999.

Two of the other new guides - Veronica on the left (from Miami)

and Natasha on the right (from the UK).

Yay, the first picture of me!

Anyway, everyone then put on a jumpsuit, like a mechanic's suit or a prison suit, to keep them semi-clean and protected from the scratchy rock, a set of goggles and gloves. We walk to the take-off site, so to speak, and each person takes their turn sitting on the board and sliding down the very steep slope of Cerro Negro. We did not have enough boards for all the guides, so my first trip down was running, which was actually very fun and even challenging, because you get to running quite fast due to the steepness, but the quicksand-quality of the gravel kept me from losing control as each step was well cushioned.

Veronica in her jumpsuit ...

Heading to the launch site.

Launching, with a helpful push from Thiago!

The rocks in my shoes after running down the slope ...

Then, back down the volcano and after a snack of bananas and cookies and peanuts, all trekkers have the option of going for a second time. Only two trekkers (out of 8) opted for a second ride, so three of us four guides went back up with them and that is when I got to slide down on a board. It was a lot of fun, and not as wild as it looked because you don't slide all that fast.

Snack time.

I went back up a second time and this time boarded down - here I am in my jumpsuit!

This is not me coming down, but at least you get the idea.

One last picture of the contrast, with a storm in the distance this time.

After heading back to the ranger station, Thiago set up lunch, which consisted of burritos amde from the flour tortillas, refired beans, chopped vegetables, and crushed doritos. Pretty good! It was followed by fresh pineapple and watermelon for desert. The hour ride back to Leon was a sleepy one, as everyone was worn out, but when we got back, each trekker got a free t-shirt and a choco-banana (a frozen half a banana on a stick, dipped in chocolate). A lot of sugar is consumed around here, and for a lack of other snacks to eat as well as a desire to try new things, let us hope I burn it all off on the volcanoes, myself! (And that the heartburn goes away - however I imagine I'll soon figure out an eating habit that works for me with the food that is available here ... more passionfruit please!)

And in regards to a housing update - I still have no place to stay! We looked at two places today for only $50/month, but they weren't very nice - not private enough or close enough to Quetzaltrekkers. So it seems that if I can hold-out for 2-3 more weeks, I will have many rooms to choose from as some of the volunteers that have been here longer will be moving out. I came up with an idea though, to pitch a tent in the large entry-room of the Quetzaltrekkers house for $5 a week until a room opens up. Ha! This will be terrible when people want to stay up late or when hikes gather and leave at 4:45 in the morning, but it will also be $5 a week (instead of $5 a night in a hostel). I'll save about $30 in rent (that's a lot of food right there!), and at least feel safe and in familiar company. Afterward, I'll have a room guaranteed and I won't be tied into another living arrangement. Hilarious? Hilarious. Let's just hope I get ENOUGH sleep not to be the grumpiest volunteer here.

Alright folks. Enough of a novel for now. When I figure out the pictures, I'll post them in the appropriate places in the blog entry so that all you will need to do is return to this posting and feast your eyes on something more interesting than text.

Much love!

A lighter note

Feeling much better now! I went and looked at a place to rent but it was $170/month, haha! Dollars! But it was basically like a hotel, not like an apartment to rent out a room. So forget that. But I guess one of the people on the board of directors lives in a place with other "Nicas" (locals) and will find out tomorrow if there is a room. That would be really wonderful, because then I could practice a lot of Spanish. I would love that.

Also, taking another tour of the city while walking to the $170 apartment with Andrew, the director, was great because he took me to a market (the second I've been to) and I got to grab some vegetables (I can't eat anymore fried stuff, buttered stuff, or rice and beans ... at least until I eat vegetables). So walking back from the market munching on passionfruit and sweet small bananas and grabbing some corn from the street that is well-charred and delicious ... and it's been raining and the sky has been dark with thunder and lightning ... I love it. So ... already feeling so much better...

Also, the reports from the people here at Quetzaltrekkers has been that nobody has really experienced any theft or violence here in Leon. I still hear that Guatemala is very, very dangerous. I have decided I will never go there. Have heard some nasty stuff ... but again, on the contrary, I have heard nothing but good things about Nicaragua, especially Leon. I still won't be walking around after dark by myself, no worries, but still ... good to know. And it feels safe.

Also, tomorrow I will not be doing an overnight hike, but rather just tagging along for volcano boarding ... a 45 minute hike up a cinder cone and a 45 second ride on a board back down, haha. Perhaps a good little intro to this whole hike leading deal.

Okay, again, time to give back the computer that someone so generously let me use! I'm around a great group of people, that's for sure.

First Nicaragua post ...

Hi all - I'm borrowing a computer again so I'm going to try to make this short!

First of all, my camera was sacrificed to the ocean gods, already. So this will be mostly text until I can bother people to let me transfer the photos they've taken onto my flash drive etc. Needless to say I'm bummed. This morning on the beach one of the larger than normal waves/tides surprised me and in my running away with water splashing up to my knees, it must have fallen out of my pocket. I've been vigilant about thieves, but not waves. And all I wanted to do was collect a little bit of seawater for a vial. Traded some seawater for a camera. Not a good trade in my opinion. But hey, I've heard that much of traveling is about "letting go." Sheesh.

Anyway, we stayed last night at the new beach hostel, which was beautiful. Being not much of a drinker, I went to bed early and listened to the hilarity of drinking games going on until 1:30am or so. I can't exactly complain since I know that's just how some people relax and have fun (and I wasn't the only one who went to bed early), but needless to say, I'll be relieved when I can get a good night's sleep. And that may not be until I find a place to live because the Quetzaltrekker's house is full-up. There are some leads for houses where other gringos live, though it'd be a bit more expensive for rent, like $120-$140. Wasn't what I was expecting to pay but at the same time it might come with more cleanliness, which I don't require but I'll take it!

Otherwise, a brief update on the more interesting things. Everything here is fried! Haha. For a girl with a bit of nutrition knowledge and a picky diet, there's another thing I've had to let go of. Hello heartburn! But it's cheap, and until I have a kitchen to call my own (and others'), I'll be eating what I can get. After that, there are a lot of fresh veggies and fruits for me to make my own meals with.

Okay - the people are friendly, the city is really comfortable and kinda pretty, too. Not much rain yet. Oh, and tomorrow I go on my first hike if we get two more people signed up. If not, I might still go, just more as a shadower than a co-guide.

Alright, so this blog sounds like a lot of complaining - sorry about that! It's admittedly hard to adjust, but really not THAT bad. I just have to give up my comforts, and I think that'd be much easier if I at least had a bedroom of my own. Once that gets sorted out, I bet you anything my perspective will lighten up. About 42 mosquito bites, a pretty painful bee sting from 3 days ago, never quite feeling like my hands are clean or my body is clean unless I can park it in front of a fan, heartburn, no such thing as a good night's sleep. But hey, no intestinal issues, yay!

I AM happy I'm here ... just waiting to get used to the change, that's all. It'll take tame, and a place to live.

So now there is something to compare to when I write excited, colorful descriptions of a fantastic adventure in the near future. :P Love you guys.

My first visit to Yosemite

It began with an alarm going off at an ungodly hour such as 4:45am, which was then followed by two grumbling people doing a short morning routine before throwing packs tents duffels and food over their shoulder, into the trunk of the car, and hittin' the road.

Eventually some tunes became appropriate and we made our way over the Grapevine and down into the valley. We stopped in Fresno to have a morning snack and coffee and then to pick up some more food and a few other pieces of clothing that were ridiculously on sale at the REI in Fresno. I was proud of my technical REI softshell jacket that was discounted from $149 to about $35. Otherwise, I would never have purchased it. And now I can be a techie adventurer on the cheap. That's my style.

Anyway...

Another hour into the mountains we stopped in ... Oakdale? ... at a Safeway to get the perishables that we needed to keep in the cooler, a roasted chicken for the meal of the day, and a tank of gas. At this point Todd insisted he take the wheel (I'm glad he knows how to drive a manual!) so that I could fully see the sights as we entered Yosemite.

We followed a curvy road (and a line of tourists in their SUVs and such) slowly into the park, held our breath through a mile-long tunnel (I didn't make it all the way, darn slow-driving tourists, that's my excuse) and soon pulled off to the side to take in the very first view of Half Dome ...



And before I knew it, someone was taking a picture of us and I was told to act like I liked Todd, which wasn't very hard to do...




On the way up to our campgrounds, we passed a rock climber's hot spot: El Capitan.



And when we got to the campsite and were waiting for our friends to meet us there, we tried to catch up on the sleep we would have gotten had we not woke up at aforementioned ungodly hour.

Streeeeeetch!

A lot of time passed between this last picture and the next, so I'll fill up the space with a true story of our night-hiking adventure extravaganza.

It was Todd, myself, and our friend Sean and his girlfriend Amanda there in Yosemite with the hopes of hiking under the stars to the top of Half-Dome, where we could take a snooze and hopefully catch the sunrise. Knowing we had around 10 miles to go that night, we stopped for pizza in Curry Village, which was also the location of the trailhead. After a long line and a fumbled order (being lactose intolerant is a new experience for me and comes along with a lot of fumbled food orders!) we hit the trail around 10:30pm.

After a bit of hiking it turned out that Todd and I hiked a bit faster than Sean and Amanda, so I gave them my headlamp and we figured we'd just stop and wait for them here and there so we could hike our own pace. Nobody minded. After they took my headlamp Todd and I began to truck on and Sean asks, "The trail doesn't split anywhere, does it?" and from what Todd recalled he said no. About 3 minutes later we reach a split in the trail, ha. But the trail we were all going to take followed a creek and a decent waterfall, and even though it was in the dark of night, the sound of the falls was beyond distinguishable. Plus, Sean said he had hiked both trails before and knew the one we were taking. At this point we figured he would remember the split as well (since evidently we all forgot about the split, even though we had discussed this split earlier in the car because one is wildly more steep than the other).

So we trucked on, when perhaps we should have waited there at the split. After about a half-a-mile of high granite steps, we make it to the top of the falls and wait for the other two to catch up. They never did, and we never saw their headlamp coming up the trail from below. We asked other hikers that reached the top after us if they had seem them and we only got "no's." We had to assume Sean took the wrong trail and perhaps forgot about the HALF-A-MILE of insanely steep steps. We decided that if we climbed back down while they were still going up the other trail (which meets the one we were on in about a mile and a half further) then we would never catch up with them. So we book it to the top of the next falls where the trails meet and basically wait there for about 2 hours as we ask other hikers coming from the other trail if they have seen our friends.

Eventually we piece together from their stories that Amanda had not wanted to continue and Sean ran ahead to find us without avail (because we were on a different trail) and around midnight (when Todd and I reached the top of the second falls) they turned around and went back. So at 2:30 in the morning, we learned they went back. It was too irresponsible to continue our hike without being in communication with them, so we decided we needed to head back. We took the trail that they accidentally took on the way back just in case, and after four miles we're back to the parking lot.

It is 5am. We have been up for 24 hours now and have hiked 6.5 miles, and are needless to say exhausted and ready to crash. When we get back to the parking spot, we are quietly astonished to find that the car was not there. We sit down at a table to wait for dawn and to figure out what to do as we both start to crash. Finally we decide to walk the mile an a half on the road to Yosemite Village where there are shuttles etc. that can hopefully take us to our campsite 17 miles away. We considered hitch-hiking but thought we'd explore more organized transportation first.

Nothing was open yet, so at 7am we crash on a bench in front of the Visitor's Center. Just before 8am an employee walks up and I wake up in time to ask him if he knows of any way to get back to Crane Flat (our campground). Evidently there is a tour bus that leaves at 8am across the street that will take us to the gas station just outside of the campground. We wait across the street to watch the tour bus fly by us without stopping. I guess it is only out of courtesy that this bus normally stops there. Luckily a regular shuttle drives by and we question her about this tour bus and she tells us to hop on and she'll take us to it's regular stop at the lodge. At the lodge, we bought our $5 tickets and hopped into the comfortable tour bus and had an amusing ride with the amusing bus driver up to that gas station. We walk the few hundred feet to the entrance of the Crane Flat campground to find Sean and Amanda in his car driving out. She leans out the window and says, "We were coming to pick you up!" and I reply, "We found our own way back."

Minimal conversation followed. Everyone recognized their responsibility in the matter, and life went on.

So at 11am Todd and I had the wine we had planned to enjoy under the stars at the top of Half Dome as we set up camp. I had my first experience getting light-headed trying to blow up my new air mattress.


After a few hours of napping mid-day in our tent while Sean and Amanda explored the park a bit, it got dark and we began our evening hang-out around the campfire. Sean and Amanda sit at the picnic table with their bags of wine ...


Todd makes a campfire...


So after sitting around the campfire and chatting, we eventually crash again at something like 10:30pm. Sean and Amanda leave at the crack of dawn and we slept right through it.

The next day we spend playing around Yosemite on a beautiful day.





We took a short walk to the base of Little Yosemite falls ...

Todd looks up at the falls.

Timed picture of the two of us. I must say, for what we went through losing our hiking companions, sleeping where the two trails met on a log and on the ground waiting for them to come, finding out they'd gone back to the car 2 hours earlier, hiking the long way back in case something had happened to them on the trail, getting back to the parking lot to find that the car was gone, staying awake and dragging our quickly crashing bodies another mile and a half in hopes to find a ride home, etc., etc., we were truly glad to have had each other through all of that.

Striking a hikin' pose!

That's Half Dome in the background. I'll get you next time, Half Dome!

Before hopping back in the car we waked to the Merced River, waded around and skipped rocks for a while, then sat and relaxed for a bit.

A little duck casually came waddling by, right by my feet. I can't be too surprised that it's not afraid of people!
And that's it for the pictures.

After that we headed out of the park, first stopping to walk out into a big field below El Capitan to try and spot some climbers, which we did not, and then later, almost out of the park, we pulled over and hiked down to an awesome swimming hole, where we took a refreshing dip and laid on a nice warm rock in the shade to dry off, hang out and enjoy our last moments in that beautiful, beautiful place.

It was really, truly, a great vacation. One I'll remember.